The Basics of Your Pool - Equipment and Chemistry

Here I will go over the operations and rolls your main filteration equipment play in keeping your swimming pool sanitized, clean and ready to swim in. I will also go over your swimming pools basic chemistry, what you should be testing for and how to make adjustments if needed.

Your Equipment

The roll of your pumps.

The heart of your circulation system is your main filteration pump. The pump moves water from the swimming pool and pushes it through the filteration system before sending it back to your swimming pool and spa. You should run your swimming pool about one hour for every 10° of temperature. Seven to Eight hours during the summer or higher swimmer loads and about five hours during the winter. The size of your plumbing, swimmer load, size of your pool (how many gallons), and your GPM (gallons per minute) all play a roll in the amount of time your swimming pool needs to run.

The automatic cleaner's booster pump takes clean filtered water and sends it to the automatic cleaner unit in your swimming pool. This pump should never be ran alone. If you use the older Intermatic Timer set-ups you should set the polaris timer to come on about an hour after the pool pump is due to come on. It is also a good idea to have the cleaner's timer wired to only run if the pool pump is on. If the booster pump comes on and runs while the main circulation pump is off it can cause some costly break downs. You only need to run your cleaner two to four hours a day.

Some systems have other pumps for water features and hot tub boosters. These pumps do not need to run on a daily basis. These pumps are not plumbed in with the filter so server no real filteration needs.

Preventative Maintenance:

• Your pump baskets should be checked and emptied regularly. Some people can getaway with once in blue moon while others have to emptie thiers on a daily basis. If you are getting leaves in your pump's strainer pot (pump basket) on a daily basis check to make sure your skimmer baskets are not cracked and broken. You also want to make sure your using the right basket for your skimmer.

• Check for wetness around the pump. A leak left un checked can cause your pump to become loud and even stop working altogether. Pump seals are typically around $15. New motors can cost hundreds.

• Keep the equipment area free of grass and weeds. You do not want things growing inside of your motor causing it to go out prematurly.

Your Filter

Your filter removes any undissolved dirt and debris from your pool's water. Although the automatic cleaner, skimmer and strainer pot all play a roll in removing debris from your swimming pool, your filter is the main player in keeping your pool water sparking. I know you've heard the saying "Cleanliness is Next to Godliness". When it comes to both sand and DE filters this is not the case. Backwashing your sand or DE filter too often or too soon does not allow the filter media to reach it's full potential. When you do this not only are you wasting your money but my water as well. Your filter should be backwashed once the pressure gage reads 10 psi above your start-up pressure, (what psi your filter read at when it was new or after a total clean out).

There are three types of filters used in swimming pools to remove all the foriegn debris.

• Sand Filters. Debris is removed from the sand filter by backwashing or reversing the water flow thru the filter media. You should backwash your sand filter once the pressure is 10 psi above normal operating pressure. Sand filters now have a few diffrent media types. (ie sand, glass, beads, gravel) They all have their pros and cons. I personally perfer sand.

• Diatomaceous Earth (DE) Filters. Just like the sand filter, your DE filter is cleaned by backwashing the filter once the pressure increases 10 psi. However, with DE, once your filter has been backwashed you will need to add ne DE powder to recoat the grids. You'll add one pound for every eight square feet of filter area. (ie A 48 sq. ft. DE filter will require six pounds of DE powder. 48sq.ft./8sq.ft.=6lbs) Additionaly DE filters need to be completely tooken apart and cleaned thuroughly. Backwashing does not remove all the old DE powder and the build up needs to be cleaned out by hand. At this time the grids (elements) need to be checked for rips, tears and broken ribs.

• Cartridge Filters. Your cartridge filter needs to be cleaned once the pressure reaches 10 psi above normal operating pressure just like the others. However this filter will have to be removed from the housing each time it needs to be cleaned. Most of the time a hard spray of the water hose is enough to clean your filter cartride. However, in some cases you will need to use a filter cleaning solution to clean your filter. A lot of these solutions require you to soak the cartride over night, in which case you'll have to leave the system down until the cleaning process is done.

Your Pool's Chemistry

You should test your swimming pool water two to three times a week during your swim season and once a week during the off season. Frequent testing is important to maintain adequate water balance and sanitizer levles. I know it sucks breaking out the test kit and fiddling around with all the reagents. Well there's some good news for you. They do sell test strips to test your water. They are very simple and only take a few seconds. Even if you have a maintenance guy it is still a good idea to check your chemicals once a week.

Properly balanced water will:

• Lengthen the life of your pools finish.

• Help to reduse the amount of scale build-up.

• Increase the longevity of your equipment.

• Reduce the chance of equipment leaks.

Poorly balanced water will:

• Destroy your pools finish

• Destroy your seals

• Destroy your heater's heat exchanger

• Rust and carrode anything metal. I've even seen pool water so bad that the stainless steel handrails were completely rusted.

• To sum it up.....Cost you a TON OF MONEY!

IMORTANT: Always follow the manufactorers directions on any chemical you add to your swimming pool or spa. NEVER MIX PRODUCTS TOGETHER!

pH 7.2-7.6

pH is the measure of acid and base in your water. The pH of your pool should be adjusted as needed. If your pH is on the low end (acidic) corrosion of your pool finish and equipment can and will happen. If your pH is on the high end (basic) you may experience cloudy water and scaling at the water line. You can use Sodium Bicarbonate (bicarb) to raise your pH and Muratic Acid to lower it. The amount needed will depend on the current levels and size of your pool.

With a pH level of 7.0, chlorine is about 73% active. At 8.5, chlorine is only about 10% active. If you can maintain a pH around 7.5, the chlorine will be 50-60% active. Keeping your pH level in check will allow you to use the full potential of the chlorine that is already in your pool.

Total Alkalinity 80-120 ppm

To prevent your pH levels from shifting up and down, the proper amount of acid buffers (total alkalinity) must be maintained in your pool. A low alkalinity level can result in your pH fluctuating, corrosion and staining. High alkalinity can have the same effects on the pH level as well as causing cloudy water and scale build up. You can use soda ash to raise your alkalinity. You should use muratic acid to lower your alkalinity. Both of these chemicals will cause a change in your pH level.

Calcium Hardness 175-250 ppm (varies depending on finish)

Calcium hardness is the amount of dissolved calcium in your swimming pool water. Low calcium hardness levels can cause your pool's finish to become rough, shorten the life of vinyl liners and can cause pool paint to deteriorate. High levels can cause calcium deposits on your pool's surface and tile as well as equipment.

Free Chlorine 1-3 ppm

Stabilized chlorine producs (ie tabs, gas, shock) and chlorine generators (salt systems) sanitize your swimming pool water and kill bacteria. Stabilized chlorine products are protected from sun light degradation and are ideal for keeping your swimming pool clean and clear. Like any thing else out there, there are pros and cons to the diffrent sanitation methods.

Cyanuric Acid 30-80 ppm

Cyanuric acid, also sometimes called stabilizer, is added to your swimming pool when it's first filled to protect the free chlorine from being destroyed by the sun, reducing the amount of chlorine needed to maintain proper sanition. If your cyanuric acid level is too high, you will have to drain some of your water and refill with fresh water to lower the level. I have had a customer tell me that they drained their pool down to the last step and refilled it to find the levels where still way to high. It is best to talk to a professional when determaning how much water to drain.

You may be asking, "Jason, I have not been adding any Cyanuric Acid to my pool. How did my stabilzier get so high?"

The most common way that cyanuric acid is added to your pool is through the chlorine tabs. Once your stabilizer is in the ideal range, perferably towards the low end, you should try to switch to a non-stabilized tab.

IMOPTANT: Make sure that your pool is at the proper water level before testing or having the cyanuric acid tested. Because the cyanuric acid does not evaporate or get used up, as your water level goes down your cyanuric acid level will go up, and as your water level goes up your cyanuric acid level goes down.

That should cover the basics. If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask.

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